The navy suit: a complete guide

Navy flatters almost every complexion, photographs well, hides wear better than mid grey and moves between the office, a wedding and dinner without looking like a uniform. If you are commissioning one suit, this is the one.

Which shade of navy

Mid to dark navy is the workhorse. Very dark navy reads almost as black under artificial light and suits formal evenings; brighter French navy is livelier but harder to wear daily. Hold the bunch against your face in daylight during the appointment — the difference between three navies is obvious in the hand and invisible in a photograph.

Cloth and weight

• 280–320g English worsted — year-round in a British climate, the safest first choice.
• High-twist worsted from Harrisons — sheds creases, ideal if you travel or sit at a desk all day.
• 340g+ navy flannel — autumn and winter, softer and warmer, less formal in feel.
• Fresco or wool-linen in navy — summer weddings and hot weather.

Cut and details

Two-button single-breasted with notch lapels and side vents is the least restrictive choice. A quarter-lined jacket keeps summer navy cool. Save patch pockets, soft shoulders and double-breasted fronts for your second or third suit, when the first has already covered every obligation.

What to wear it with

Black oxfords for formal wear, dark brown or oxblood for business, mid-brown suede for the weekend. White or pale blue shirts carry it anywhere; grenadine and knitted ties dress it down. Avoid a navy tie against navy cloth unless the textures clearly differ.

Made-to-measure or bespoke?

Made-to-measure is the sensible route for a first navy suit, with a full choice of cloth and details. Bespoke earns its keep once you know exactly how you want a jacket to sit, or if your posture makes standard patterns fight you.