Morning dress: a complete guide

The three pieces

• Morning coat — black or Oxford grey, single-breasted, one button, cut away to tails at the back.
• Trousers — grey cashmere stripe or houndstooth, never matching the coat, no turn-ups, worn with braces.
• Waistcoat — buff, dove grey or a colour; single or double-breasted. This is where personality belongs.

Grey morning suits

A matching light grey morning suit is a summer and Ascot tradition rather than an error, and photographs beautifully at a garden wedding. Black coat with striped trousers remains the most formal reading.

Shirt, tie and extras

A plain white or pale shirt with a turndown collar, a woven silk tie or a cravat for a wedding, black oxfords and, if you want them, a top hat and gloves carried rather than worn. Keep the buttonhole modest.

Hiring or having it made

Hired morning dress fits where it happens to fit, and it shows in photographs you keep for life. Made-to-measure morning dress costs more than hire but fits properly and stays in the wardrobe for future weddings and race meetings. Allow the full lead time and plan fittings around the wedding party.