29 Jan Spotlight on the Double Breasted Suit
THE DOUBLE BREASTED IS BACK AW18/19
The double breasted jacket or suit is back with vengeance for the AW18/19 season, read on for our tips on how and when to wear this traditionally but very stylish jacket/suit.
MONDAY MORNING BUSINESS MEETING
Nothing conveys power and authority in the boardroom like a double breasted suit. It means business. With that said, if you’re a first year analyst it’s probably not the best choice. A DB suit is a rite of passage that must be earned in corporate circles. The easiest DB to fit into your work week is solid navy blue. It’s the least flashy and most business appropriate colour for a suit. It’s also super versatile and very flattering on just about any skin tone.
As always, fit is essential. The jacket needs to be slim through the body to avoid a wide looking frame. When buttoned (as it should be unless you’re sitting down) it should skim your sides, providing a tapered shape from the chest and shoulders to the midsection.
There are multiple button stances for DB suits. I prefer the 6×2 (6 buttons x 2 that fasten). For smaller guys, a 4×2 or even 2×1 can be more flattering. An easy way to add a subtle flair to your suit: change the buttons. Navy suits typically come with black, navy or dark brown horn buttons, but you can swap them for light tortoise shell to make the suit slightly more note-worthy.
SEPARATES WEDNESDAY – OUT SEEING CUSTOMERS
Don’t forget with a navy suit you have a perfect pair of versatility trousers. Pair them with a patterned or textured plain grey blazer and nobody at the office will notice you’re wearing the same pants.
THURSDAY REVERSAL – CATCHING UP IN THE OFFICE
If you can wear the pants separately, you can do the same with the jacket. After all, it’s essentially a blue blazer. Grey flannel trousers are a great match, they add a little Autumn/Winter weight to the look. Leave a few versatile ties at your office, commuting with an open shirt will keep you much cooler and save the back collar of your shirts.
DRESS DOWN FRIDAY’S
OK, I’m going to cheat here a little. You could either, stick with your navy jacket and wear them with cream or brown chino’s or invest in a second DB suit or jacket. The classic navy is great and super versatile but the grey (with a blue or red over check) Prince of Wales DB suit or jacket will give you a totally different look! Wear the jacket with a pair or roomten bespoke jeans or casual trousers, plus tan/brown brogues and you will achieve the casual “dress down Friday” look you want but a touch of flair and class.
SATURDAY NIGHT OUT
The DB jacket can be worn on the weekend as well. It’s a great go-to for a Saturday evening. The outfit is actually very simple and casual: cotton crewneck, jeans, chukka boots. The addition of the tailored jacket takes it to another level and makes it fancy restaurant or nightclub worthy. Everybody looks good in navy, don’t be afraid to layer it together.
Classic Chalk Stripe – Maybe not as flexible as the navy DB but it makes a statement and you will stand out from the crowd. Therefore, it is important to stay away from loud patterns and stick with classic plain colours for your shirt and tie. For a more period look have your suit made with wider lapels and it is contemporary your after then go the other way and narrow them. Consider having your trousers made with pleats inward facing and even turn-ups. The trouser leg can still be made slim if preferred. And wear them with braces, orange or read paisley will look great when you take your jacket off.
Be brave and let your imagination run wild with bold checks or strong colours.