26 Dec Made to Measure Overcoats – Ultimate Guide
Made to Measure Overcoats
Autumn, Winter and even in a British Summer, its always a good time to think about your winter made to measure overcoat. We know that coats come in all different styles and fabrics, and that’s why we offer a large array of fabrics, linings and other materials to ensure your coat is unique to you.
A staple of any wardrobe, the made to measure overcoat is the ultimate necessity. With a vast selection of coat style, it’s sometimes difficult to know what style, colour and material will be best for you. Of course, we are always here to advise you on the best style, colour, fabric and fit or you.
Roomtens made to measure overcoats featured are based on classic styles, despite their traditional characteristics and features, here at Roomten we are always happy to put a modern twist on a traditional style.
The Chesterfield coat has been around since the mid 19th century, and is named after George Stanhope, 6th Earl of Chesterfield and is a tailored overcoat.
- Waist seams- the coat does not have a seam at the waist, so the coat flows from the torso down to the knee with no break.
- Short notch lapel- the notch lapel is one of the most popular lapel styles, on the Chesterfield coat these are much shorter than on a suit jacket, for the reason that the Chesterfield sits higher on the chest to protect the wearer from the elements.
- Pockets- traditionally, the Chesterfield coat would have a working straight side pocket which is either jetted or flapped. This choice of pocket is of course optional, in recent years the fashion has been for a front flap or jetted pocket.
- No cuffs- the sleeves of a Chesterfield coat should be completely plain, without buttons or toggles. Knee length- this of course is optional however traditionally a Chesterfield sits above or on the knee. Colour- most typically the Chesterfield is found in shades of brown or black however here at Roomten we are always happy to put a twist on the traditional style.
The Covert Coat
The Covert coat was first introduced in the late 19th Century and was designed specifically for mounted hunters and riders. The name comes from the cloth in which the coat is made, Covert cloth- Covert meaning a ‘thicket in which game hides’, this is a grey-green cloth which originally would have blended into the environment. Similar in style to the Chesterfield coat, there are few features setting the two apart.
- Vents- the Covert coat features one single rear vent.
- Covert cloth- traditionally, this is what made a Covert coat what it is today however in recent years many Covert coats have been made from Worsted Wool, Camel hair and even Gabardine.
- Pockets- the Covert coat should traditionally have two straight flap pockets, as well as a smaller poachers pocket or ticket pocket slightly above. Also features a jetted chest pocket.
- Lapel- traditionally, much like the Chesterfield the Covert coat would have a short notch lapel. Setting the Covert apart from the Chesterfield, it traditionally would feature a contrast collar in Velvet.
- Length- the Covert should end anywhere in between mid-thigh and mid-calf length.
- Stitching- to keep a Covert true to its original style, it should feature four or five lines of stitching around the cuffs and hem.
Single breasted- to keep a Covert coat true to its origins, it should feature a fly front (concealing the front buttons).
The Peacoat originated in the early 19th century, it’s roots lay with the Military and Navy and was first invented by the Dutch Navy. The name ‘pea’ came from the Dutch work ‘pije’, meaning made of coarse thick wool. Worn by the British Navy in the mid 19th century, the Peacoat’s popularity soared, and was then introduced overseas in the US where it became fashioned and is the coat we know today.
The made to measure Ulster Coat was created throughout the Victorian era as a less formal option to a classic Overcoat. The name ‘Ulster’ comes from the Irish Province of Ulster, where the people of Ulster would sport a tweed overcoat. Traditionally created with heavy tweed, the Ulster can be created from any wool or cotton fabric.
Length- The Ulster coat would traditionally have been knee length, however this is optional and can be made at a mid-length.
Double Breasted- The Ulster coat should maintain its traditional Double Breasted design.
Ulster Collar- A traditional Ulster collar is unlike any other overcoat collar, it is a short lapel featuring a deep notch.
Belt- The Ulster coat features an adjustable half-belt at the back so that it can be as tight or loose fitting as desired.
Pockets- A traditional Ulster coat would feature a front patch pocket, however for a more refined look a flap pocket can be added to the design.
The Raincoat or Balmacaan, known by many names this overcoat has changed style many times. We have developed our own interpretation of this must have garment with simple lines and timeless elegance. Made using one of our specially developed cotton fabrics or change the look using alternative materials such as the navy chalk stripe shown in the picture.
Summary: Great coat to be worn for business and other occasions, worn over a suit when the heavens open. Consider light weight cottons with a special shower proof coating, or using this classic style try a wool fabric, navy chalk stripe, tweed check or maybe a hounds tooth? This is a roomten favourite!