This year we’ve seen a steady increase in our selection of fabrics here at Roomten. We believe our fabric range is one of the best out there, sourcing from across Europe, we are continually researching what is best for you, the customer.

At Roomten, we get a lot of enquiries from customers asking about how important the fabric is when it comes to shirt production.

The answer? Very important.

The fabric is the most crucial component when it comes to shirt production. Each type of fabric has different qualities that result in varying finishes and feels. We’re always on hand at Roomten to assist you in choosing a shirt fabric that suits your needs perfectly.

Weaves

With fine fabric, it’s all about the weave. Weaving is where two yarns are entwined to form a fabric, the weave type refers to the way in which the yarns are entwined. There are two main types of weave that are commonly used to create fabric;

Plain weave

Plain weave is a simple criss-cross of yarns, for example, one yarn goes under the other one at a time and vice versa.

Twill weave

Twill weave is created by passing two or more yarns over another at a time to create a diagonal ribbed pattern and texture.

Poplin

Also know as ‘Tabinet’, Poplin is a strong cotton fabric. Made from a plain weave, poplin is tightly woven resulting in a highly durable medium to heavy weight fabric. Roomten would suggest poplin for any type of shirt, work, casual or event. Not only is poplin machine washable, it also doesn’t crease as easily as other shirt fabrics.

Twill

The name Twill comes from the way in which the fabric was weaved. Twill fabric will always have fine, diagonal ribs throughout due to the weaving type used.  Much like poplin, twill is a durable fabric that is not prone to creasing or wrinkling, making it a perfect fabric for work shirts. At Roomten we also stock a fine twill, which differs only in the visibility and texture of the diagonal rib weave that features throughout.

Chambray

Chambray is a plain weave fabric, it is created by using two yarns in the weave- one coloured (warp) and one white (weft), to create an inconsistent colour throughout. This inconsistent colouration gives Chambray a beautiful finish to it. Being lighter in weight compared to poplin, oxford or twill, Chambray does require more attention in terms of crease control. We suggest chambray as a smart casual shirt option.

End-on-end

Also known as Fil-a-Fil, End-on-End is almost identical to Chambray. Featuring the same weaving structure, using a white weft yarn and coloured warp yarn. End-on-End can be made with both cotton and linen. Despite being lightweight, this fabric tends to fair better in terms of creasing.

Melange

Melange can be created using both a plain or twill weave. Usually created using many yarns which differ in colour hue, to give a marl effect throughout. Best used for a smart casual shirt, melange tends to lack in body and drape and therefore does not give the same sharp, fresh look as poplin or twill however works perfectly with jeans and under a jacket.

Oxford (Pinpoint Oxford)

Also referred to Pinpoint Oxford, Oxford cotton is a smart casual classic. Creating using thick, heavy thread and constructed in a loose twill or plain weave. Oxford is the most durable shirt fabric that is available. Very popular amongst high street retailers, we would always suggest Oxford for smart casual wear.

Marcella (Pique)

Also known as Pique, Marcella refers to the weaving style used to create this fabric. Associated mostly with white or black tie, Marcella is a stiff fabric with plenty of starch- ideal for stuff fronted or bibbed shirts and is also used for white tie waistcoats and bowties. Pique is a finer version of Marcella, using the same knit weave to create, this is commonly used for polo or golf shirts. Pique is softer to the touch and more malleable than Marcella, which is why it is often used for casual clothing.

Herringbone

With its distinctive fish tail pattern, Herringbone is named after the bone of a Herring. A broken twill weave is used to create this appearance in the fabric. Herringbone is an ideal fabric for a work or event shirt as it not only features the unique pattern but also hold it’s shape well, is not prone to wrinkling and keeps its fresh colour and shape, making it highly durable.

Sea Island Cotton

Sea Island cotton is one of the most sought after and rare cotton, making up only .0004% of cotton on the market today. Made with extra-long staple cotton, this allows for a luxuriously smooth feel and finish. Not only does Sea Island Cotton make a lovely looking shirt, it is also one of the strongest cottons and creases the least out of all of our shirt fabrics. Maintaining its colour through many washes.

For more information on our made to measure shirt and blouse service, don’t hesitate to get in touch!

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