Overcoats- The Ultimate Roomten Guide

As Autumn and Winter draw closer, it might be time to think about your winter coat. Here at Roomten we know that coats come in all different styles and fabrics, and that’s why we stock a large array of fabrics, linings and other materials to ensure your coat is unique to you.

A staple of any wardrobe, the coat is the ultimate winter necessity. With a vast selection of coat styles on the runway and high street, it’s sometimes difficult to know what style, colour and material will be best for you. Of course, at Roomten we are always here to advise you on the best style, colour and fabric for you.

The coats featured below are some of the most classic styles of coat on the market, despite their traditional characteristics and features, here at Roomten we are always happy to put a modern twist on a traditional style.

Chesterfield Coat

The Chesterfield coat has been around since the mid 19th century, and is named after George Stanhope, 6th Earl of Chesterfield and is a tailored overcoat. It arose as an alternative to the incredibly tailored and shaped jackets that were of fashion at the time.

Waist seams- the coat does not have a seam at the waist, so the coat  flows from the torso down to the knee with no break.

Front darts-  the Chesterfield is one of the only coats that does not feature front darts, this gives a slightly less ‘tailored’ look and leaves the front of the coat seam free.

Short notch lapel- the notch lapel is one of the most popular lapel styles, on the Chesterfield coat these are much shorter than on a suit jacket, for the reason that the Chesterfield sits higher on the chest to protect the wearer from the elements.

Pockets- traditionally, the Chesterfield coat would have a working straight side pocket which is either jetted or flapped. This choice of pocket is of course optional, in recent years the fashion has been for a front flap or jetted pocket.

No cuffs- the sleeves of a Chesterfield coat should be completely plain, without buttons or toggles.

Knee length- this of course is optional however traditionally a Chesterfield sits above or on the knee.

Colour- most typically the Chesterfield is found in shades of brown or black however here at Roomten we are always happy to put a twist on the traditional style.

Covert coat

The Covert coat was first introduced in the late 19th Century and was designed specifically for mounted hunters and riders. The name comes from the cloth in which the coat is made, Covert cloth- Covert meaning a ‘thicket in which game hides’, this is a grey-green cloth which originally would have blended into the environment a hunter would be in. Similar in style to the Chesterfield coat, there are few features setting the two apart.

Vents- the Covert coat features one single rear vent.

Covert cloth- traditionally, this is what made a Covert coat what it is today however in recent years many Covert coats have been made from Worsted Wool, Camel hair and even Gabardine.

Pockets- the Covert coat should traditionally have two straight flap pockets, as well as a smaller poachers pocket or ticket pocket slightly above. Also features a jetted chest pocket.

Lapel- traditionally, much like the Chesterfield the Covert coat would have a short notch lapel. Setting the Covert apart from the Chesterfield, it traditionally would feature a contrast collar in Velvet.

Length- the Covert should end anywhere in between mid-thigh and mid-calf length.

Stitching- to keep a Covert true to its original style, it should feature four or five lines of stitching around the cuffs and hem.

Single breasted- to keep a Covert coat true to its origins, it should feature a fly front (concealing the front buttons).

Peacoat

The Peacoat originated in the early 19th century, it’s roots lay with the Military and Navy and was first invented by the Dutch Navy. The name ‘pea’ came from the Dutch work ‘pije’, meaning made of coarse thick wool. Worn by the British Navy in the mid 19th century, the Peacoats popularity soared, and was then introduced overseas in the US where it became fashioned and is the coat we know today.

Length- The peacoat should sit just below the hip in length- this is one of the shortest overcoats that are available.

Double Breasted- Traditionally, the Peacoat would have been designed as double breasted and is a design characteristic maintained today.

Lapels- To keep the Peacoat true to its original style, it should feature a peaked lapel.

Buttons-  The Peacoat should have a 6×2 arrangement (8×2 if you should wish to have blind buttons).

Fitted- As the Peacoat was originally designed for the Navy out at sea, the Peacoat is a fitted, tailored style as the closer it is held to the body, the more heat it will retain.

Back- The back of a Peacoat should feature either one or no back vents and should be finished plain, without a belt or back darts.

Ulster Coat

The Ulster Coat was created throughout the Victorian era as a less formal option to a classic Overcoat. Originally designed with a cape, this was eradicated from the design at some point during the Edwardian period. The name ‘Ulster’ comes from the Irish Province of Ulster, where the people of Ulster would sport a tweed overcoat. Traditionally created with heavy tweed (specifically Donegal tweed), the Ulster can be created from any wool or cotton fabric.

Length- The Ulster coat would traditionally have been knee length, however this is optional and can be made at a mid-length.

Double Breasted- The Ulster coat should maintain its traditional Double Breasted design.

Ulster Collar- A traditional  Ulster collar is unlike any other overcoat collar,  it is a short lapel featuring a deep notch.

Belt- The Ulster coat features an adjustable half-belt at the back so that it can be as tight or loose fitting as desired.

Pockets- A traditional Ulster coat would feature a front patch pocket, however for a more refined look a flap pocket can be added to the design.

Remember, a Made to Measure Overcoat has a lead time of 6-8 weeks so the sooner you order, the sooner you get to wear it!

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *