The Modern Suit Trouser – How do you wear yours?
Few would argue against the suit being THE defining expression of menswear. It is also one of the only items that has clearly defined rules, particularly with regard to fit. There is an accepted standard within tailoring that creates a clear division between a suit that fits, and one that doesn’t. And classic versus fashion fit/style.
Trouser length and fit
Traditional tailoring guidelines dictate one break at the front of your suit trousers and straight down at the back, with the hems just brushing the top of the heel (or 1 cm off the ground), ensuring that the trouser drapes properly and maintains its shape.
But with each passing year, we are now being asked to make suit trousers that are identifiably skinnier, and often shorter, than the fuller cuts of eras past, meaning the old rules and guidelines are becoming less relevant and, in some cases, obsolete. Besides, rules are meant to be broken!
Modern slim/skinny suit trousers sit higher up on the shoe, due to a slimmer width, meaning the material bunches (‘breaks’) at a much shorter length. They no longer drape down the back of the shoe, so standard rules don’t apply. The solution is to opt for a smaller half break or no break at all. This solves both the issue of length and brings your suit bang up to date by challenging the time-honoured conventions of tailoring.
These shorter trousers look particularly great during spring/summer, allowing you to get playful with your choice of sock (or lack thereof) as well as really showing off your roomten shoes.
Things to think about!
However, if you choose a half or no break, bear in mind that the trousers should, at the very least, be slim-fitting to keep the lines sharp and tight. Also consider where you will be wearing your suit, if it’s in a more corporate environment then maybe you should think about having a slightly longer (1-2 cm) trouser leg and fractionally wider (again 1-2 cm). This will give you a classic look that your peers will approve of. Though age is just a number, that’s what I keep telling myself (I am 55), I don’t want to look as if I’m trying too hard to look and dress younger than I am, so though a slim leg is fine but it doesn’t have to be super skinny!
Low Waisted or High Waisted Trousers
Over the last 5 – 10 years the waist line of trousers has dropped from the true waist to on or nearer the hip bone, the style is similar to how jeans fit. We don’t see this changing dramatically over the next 12 months but TV shows such as Peaky Blinders and others set in 1920’s, 30’s, 40’s and 50’s are encouraging a trend towards a look from this period. These trousers are high waisted, worn with braces and slightly wider. A cotemporary take on this style is to make the trouser high waisted but to slim down the leg.